Like any regional cuisine, the food of the Tidewater region of the United States is defined by its ingredients. And in the case of Delaware, Maryland and Virginia (much of which is also known as the Delmarva Peninsula or the Eastern Shore), there’s a wealth of products from the sea and land to choose from.
Crab
The single defining ingredient of the Delmarva region is the crab—not surprising considering that the region is bordered by the Chesapeake Bay to the west and Delaware Bay and the Atlantic on the east. (The Chesapeake takes its name from the Algonquin Chesepioc, or “great shellfish bay.”) Baltimore calls itself the crab capital of the world, known for its spicy boiled crab, crab cakes, crabmeat Imperial and other iconic dishes.
Although the region’s waters have had their share of ills, including overfishing and pollution, the Eastern Shore is still rich in seafood treasures. Chief among them is callinectes sapidus, the blue crab, also called a hardshell crab. Meat from the blue crab has a sweet, succulent flavor, almost buttery in its richness.
Blue crabs are small but full of meat, averaging 4 to 6 inches across the diamond shaped carapace. Lump crabmeat, taken from the body, is more delicate, while claw meat is almost nutty in flavor. The relatively high price of crabmeat is indicative of a premium, luxury product that—once picked—has virtually no waste but almost unlimited uses.
When they molt, blue crabs are called “busters,” or soft-shelled crabs, so-named because you can eat the whole thing, shell and all.
Oysters
The native oyster has had a rough time all over the United States, including the Chesapeake Bay. When European colonists first arrived in the area in the 1600s, the oyster reefs were so massive that they were a navigational hazard to ships, but today the harvest has been reduced to an estimated 1% of its former abundance, according to one study. A number of different restoration and conservation efforts have been put in place, including aquaculture projects, but the region’s appetite for oysters also must depend on supplies from other parts of the country.
That still means oysters on the half shell, oyster stew, baked oysters, and fried oysters in all their variations, including stuffed into sandwiches. A little-known specialty of southern New Jersey, which shares the Delaware River with that state, is chicken salad and fried oysters, which can still be found in some of the area’s classic restaurants.
Virginia Ham
It is said that Virginia Indians may have taught the first colonists the ancient methods of salting, smoking and aging venison and other wild game, and the Englishmen adapted the technique to their own plentiful pigs. These country-style hams are rich, flavorful, dry and salty—an acquired taste to be sure, but one that more chefs and food lovers are embracing today as interest in regional American foods reignites.
The craft has grown to include a variety of different products, used on their own and to flavor a number of other recipes, including bacon, sausage, and other smoked meats.
The most famous Virginia ham is the Smithfield ham, which must be cured and processed in the area of Smithfield, VA. Smithfield and other true country hams are usually soaked for 12-24 hours to remove excess salt, and then are boiled and baked. A little bit goes a long way, which is the reason these hams are so often served on biscuits to complement the rich, intensely hammy flavor.

